![insulation for lath and plaster walls insulation for lath and plaster walls](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ea/fe/cc/eafecc2ec67f7623f8467378db406777.jpg)
If you are happy with that cool, but I usually will paint on a lime wash and trowel that wet as well. Sand between coats to get that really flat pro look. Mix the 2 well and then apply with a 9" roller, troweling smooth before it dries with a Marshalltown plasterer's trowel or similar. Make sure to buy the non-toxic varieties of both I use Proform joint compound which is Greenguard certified and a zero VOC latex paint like Benjamin Moore's. For each 5-gal bucket of all purpose joint compound add 1 gal of latex paint. This sounds expensive, but is the very cheapest finish for the DIY type. If it were me, I would remove all the drywall that is practical, tidy up the insulation and then either add an air barrier/vapor retarder or go with what's called the air tight drywall approach, since drywall with plaster/paint is a vapor retarder/air barrier.Īir tight drywall is easily achieved with a latex-modified gypsum plaster. What you are really after is a way to stop the air from exiting the home into the wall, as this air typically has a higher moisture content than outside air and if temps are lower than the dewpoint, that airborne moisture will condense inside of the wall.
![insulation for lath and plaster walls insulation for lath and plaster walls](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/d0b80a_428931feeca941a88cc98e687a98830b~mv2.jpg)
This may seem like no big deal, but if you didn't detail your windows or roof properly, then it will soon become your worst nightmare. I always recommend no vapor barrier as these do not allow the building to dry to the inside. Pays off in the long run when you are buying heat!Īs a historic home restoration professional, I get this asked a lot. And new insulation there while the walls are open.Īlso see if your utility company, extension service or whatever can put you onto a good place to do a infrared chekc of where the heat is leaking out of your house. The vapor barrier should be built around these areas for sure if you plan to go and add it in. They need ventilation to outside, with condensate lines if possible (sometimes this is required by code). Unclear on the insulation - is this loose fill blown in? Did previous owner top up the stud cavities and the attic? That's the way to go if you don't plan to tear out plaster.įocus on kitchen and bath spaces - anywhere with water vapor sources. Not much real world gain in adding the styrofoam, unless there was NO insulation in the walls. I would have resurfaced teh plaster, or ripped it out. Is there styrofoam then drywall tacked up over the old plaster and lathe walls? My best guess is that that was meant to provide a better surface for paint.
![insulation for lath and plaster walls insulation for lath and plaster walls](https://cohesivehomes.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Types-of-Insulation-for-Lath-and-Plaster-Walls.jpg)
Sorry trouble with posting - took too long to think.